Seodaemun Prison History Hall, which is a museum/memorial set up on the site of a prison that was built during the Japanese occupation of Korea (1908-1945). After liberation, it served as a handy place to keep pro-democracy activists and was in active use until 1987.
not the only thing that was popular in Asia before Americans jumped on the bandwagon.)
panopticon was just a disturbing metaphor for the modern surveillance state, but they actually built one in the prison's exercise yard. There's a platform for the watchman to stand on (I used it to take the picture) and the prisoners were in walled-in enclosures that spread out like a fan, allowing the watchman to see everyone without having to move at all.
After a morning of sacred mountains, pig butchering, violent insurgency and torture, our thoughts naturally turned to lunch. Quinn really wanted to visit Gangnam to see whether it's anything like the video. It was raining, so it was sort of hard to tell. We did find a place near the Sinsa subway station where we got some awesome galbi. It was a spicy beef stew that was kept warm by a little propane burner on the table. We opted for the version with octopus in it; there were others. It also had mushrooms, noodles, and other vegetables in it. When it became clear that we were galbi rookies, the waiter came by and used the (ubiquitous) tongs and scissors to remove the beef from the bone and get the vegetables and octopus into more manageable pieces. They offered spiciness levels from 1 to 5; we opted for a 2 and found it to be toward the upper end of the pleasant range. Anything more than a 3 probably would have been inedible.
Day 5 wasn't quite so exciting; we basically spent the day getting back to Kobe. Gus, however, makes new friends everywhere we go -- this was in a shuttle bus at Kansai International Airport.