On our first full day in Seoul, we ventured out to have a look at Changdeokgung, which came most highly-recommended out of Seoul's major palace complexes. We showed up in the neighborhood a little early for the English-language tour, so we stopped first at Bukchon, a neighborhood with lots of hanok, or traditional-style Korean houses.
The tour at Changdeokgung was of the "Secret Garden" -- a wooded area behind the main palace complex where (I suspect) the king had exclusive drinking (and poetry) parties. We didn't stick with the tour group for very long. I'm sure the tour guide was saying lots of witty and informative things, but her loudspeaker was so quiet that we couldn't hear her over the crowd, and the whole tour moved a little faster than people with a nine-month-old can do comfortably. We did discover, however, that the secret garden has a really nice diaper-changing room.
It wouldn't really be a vacation if we didn't take lots of self-portrait pictures.
Gus enjoyed this part of the day koala-style.
This was kind of a neat touch; a lot of the purpose of the secret garden was for the education of the crown prince. To drive the point home, most of the buildings had a bookshelf in them; if you took your shoes off you could go in and make use of the royal reading room. Some of them might have been Confucian classics, but I did spot at least one of the Twilight books.
After a morning of secret gardening, we were ready for some lunch. We found a place near Bukchon that looked good. It was.
Nobody puts Baby in the corner. Except his parents, that is.
It totally felt like we were having lunch at somebody's house; we took our shoes off when we came in, walked past the kitchen area where they were making dumplings, and sat down near a TV that was playing the news in Korean. We'd expected to only find tourist-trap restaurants in the neighborhood, but it seems we got lucky.
We ordered a (giant) seafood and green onion pancake, as well as a red bean soup with rice noodles in it.
And of course there was kimchi. Wonderful, wonderful kimchi; both the standard bok choy variety and some made from daikon. Since a single bok choy leaf is too big to handle with chopsticks, they gave us tongs and scissors so we could cut them into more manageable pieces.
After lunch, we returned to Chandeokgung to check out the actual palace buildings.
I'm not sure what these were all about; we saw them on a lot of the roofs.
Quinn is born to direct and I'm (apparently) good at taking direction.
Case in point.
We headed back to the hotel so we could rest our feet a little and and Gus could stretch out and get a break from the carrier. Then we headed back out to visit Namsan Park and the Seoul Tower.
This is what the tower looked like before our climb. It didn't look that far away, so we opted to walk it rather than taking the cable car. Lots and lots of stairs.
Here's the tower at the end of our climb, with Quinn posing triumphantly in front of it.
Apparently, Namsan park is a big date place. Couples (Seoul mates?) will climb up and leave a lock on one of the fences to symbolize their love. Ours is the greed combination lock in the middle.
Lots of locks.
Even the benches are romantic.
Seoul Tower included a teddy bear museum (why? why not?) and when we spotted a bear doing the "Gangnam Style" dance Quinn (and Gus) couldn't help but get in on it.
We took the cable car down, and paused to get a shot of just how far away the tower looks when you're not on the mountain.
Sunday, May 5, 2013
Golden Week Day 1: Seoul Plane, Seoul Train, Seoul Food
It's that time of year again... I had some time off work for Golden Week and needed an adventure that would compare with last year. Quinn has always wanted to visit South Korea, so we decided to ignore some widely-publicized travel advice and head to Seoul for the week. We got tickets with Peach (Japan's first low-cost carrier!) and flew from Kansai to Incheon.
Gus is an excellent little world traveler; he handled the whole airport and flight experience with hardly a complaint. The guy at the KIX immigration desk was a little confused about why he had a US passport with no entry stamp for Japan; we had to explain that this was his first time leaving Japan.
Once we arrived at Incheon, we rode the airport express train into Seoul station and then the subway to Myeongdong, where our hotel was.
The main shopping street in Myeongdong. It goes on and on like this.
Once Quinn and Gus were settled down in the hotel, I ventured out to find us some dinner. Myeongdong has lots of restaurants, and even more clothing stores and a couple of motorized mannequins that bow to prospective customers, but I was having a hard time finding food to go.
Until, that is, I spotted it in the distance: Shinsegae, a giant Korean department store. And where there’s an Asian department store, there’s a basement-level food court.
I got some spicy fried chicken, some kind of green vegetable, and some kind of black rice thing. Overall, day one was a success.
Gus is an excellent little world traveler; he handled the whole airport and flight experience with hardly a complaint. The guy at the KIX immigration desk was a little confused about why he had a US passport with no entry stamp for Japan; we had to explain that this was his first time leaving Japan.
Once we arrived at Incheon, we rode the airport express train into Seoul station and then the subway to Myeongdong, where our hotel was.
The main shopping street in Myeongdong. It goes on and on like this.
Once Quinn and Gus were settled down in the hotel, I ventured out to find us some dinner. Myeongdong has lots of restaurants, and even more clothing stores and a couple of motorized mannequins that bow to prospective customers, but I was having a hard time finding food to go.
Until, that is, I spotted it in the distance: Shinsegae, a giant Korean department store. And where there’s an Asian department store, there’s a basement-level food court.
I got some spicy fried chicken, some kind of green vegetable, and some kind of black rice thing. Overall, day one was a success.
Sunday, April 14, 2013
Kakegawa Shincha Marathon
In my last post, I alluded to a period of
blog-silence. One thing that happened during that silent period is that I ran
the Fukuchiyama Marathon again, in late November of 2012. The reason I didn’t
blog about it at the time (other than me being lazy) is that I was a little embarrassed.
I got a decent time (about 3:11, I think), but the race was a disaster. Quinn
didn’t really get the distinction; her logic was that if my time is an
improvement over the previous one, then the race was a success. The problem is
that it didn’t feel like a success –
I’d been hoping to break 3 hours and was on track to do so (by a pretty wide
margin) until about 32 kilometers (20 miles) in; at which point things fell
apart. In distance-running lingo, I bonked. I had no energy left and the
thought of running another step was unbearable; I stopped and walked for a
while, then sort of alternated walking and running for the last few miles. My
legs didn’t even really hurt all that much; the entire problem was that I just
ran out of energy.
There are a few possible reasons for this;
Gus was about 3 1/2 months old at the time, and none of us were sleeping much
or able to focus on much of anything. That’s a lame excuse, though. The real
reason is that I did the whole thing without much of a plan. My training plan
basically consisted of running a whole lot of miles at whatever pace felt good,
my race plan consisted of starting with my 3:00:00 goal time, dividing by
42.195 km to get 4:16 per km, and figuring that if I tried to run every km
under that time then I’d be fine. Not so much. I was frustrated with myself,
and by the next morning I was itching for a do-over.
So I signed up for the next race I could
feasibly train for, the Kakegawa Shincha Marathon (掛川新茶マラソン) in Kakegawa, Shizuoka prefecture. The name means “Kakegawa new tea
marathon” – they grow a lot of tea in the area, and at this time of year the
new leaves are just coming out. I was determined to do everything differently
this time; I got myself a very focused training plan from Marathon Nation that
had me running harder and faster than ever before, I wrote out
obsessively-detailed pre- and post-race plans, and I was determined that this
time I would hit my goal of a sub-3:00 marathon.
Here’s the timeline, in pictures:
The evening before the race, I caught the Shinkansen to Kakegawa, checked into my
hotel and headed out for dinner. I was looking for something carbohydrate-rich,
predictable, and familiar, and I wound up at Coco Ichibanya. For those who aren’t familiar with it ここいち (as it’s affectionately called) is a chain restaurant that serves
Japanese brown curry. It’s decent, and I eat there often enough to make it
predictable and familiar. I asked for extra rice (400g total) and made a point
of not asking for extra-spicy (which I usually do).
Then I went back to the hotel, pored over
the race map and elevation chart some more and was in bed by 9:30pm.
At 5:30am (4h before race start), I woke up
and went for my pre-race breakfast. The advice I found on this
recommended a carbohydrate-heavy meal (about 1.2-1.5 g per pound of body
weight); I was looking at English-language sites so they were very enamored
with bagels and oatmeal. Those are sort of exotic here so I went
Japanese-style, with daigakuimo
(honey-glazed sweet potato) and onigiri
(seaweed-wrapped rice balls). I’d done this exact breakfast 4 hours before one
of my training runs, but I had a lot more butterflies in my stomach this time.
At 7:30am (2h before race start), I went
down to the hotel breakfast area for the second carbohydrate-rich breakfast
installment: bread and orange juice. To the left is the race course map, which
I’d pretty much memorized by this point.
By 8:30am (1h before race start), I was at
the train station waiting in line for the shuttle bus to the race start.
Waiting in lines is a time-honored Japanese distance running tradition. If I
had to do it all over again, I would have gotten on the bus a little earlier; I
was a little bit rushed trying to figure out where the starting line was, stash
my backpack, etc.
This is a view out the bus window at some
of those famous tea fields. I really had no idea that this is what tea plants
look like.
This is my pace plan, copied to the back of
my left hand. The ink held up fairly well while I was running, but my reading
skills didn’t – next time I’ll write the last few bigger than the rest.
At 9:00am (30 minutes before start), I had
the last installment of pre-race breakfast, a “One Second” energy gel. These
things are proof that they don’t actually make everything smaller in Japan –
41.4g of carbohydrates in one squeeze. It usually takes me longer than one
second to get the screw-top open, but from there the delivery is as quick as
advertised. They’re a little too big to fit comfortably in the pockets of my running
shorts, but I’d brought four of them to stick in my pockets, planning to put
one down every 40 minutes or so.
The race staging area was in a big field in
Tsumagoi (つま恋, literally “wife love”) park. The weather was nice (warmish but
mostly cloudy), and people had tents and tarps set up. There were booths with
food, souvenirs, etc. around the perimeter and a stage set up with live music.
I left my stuff in an easy-to-find spot and headed for the starting area.
Once I got into the starting corral (packed
in like sushi, as they say), I suddenly realized (to my horror) that I’d
forgotten the gels that I’d planned on putting in my pockets. They were still
sitting in my backpack, and there was no way that I’d have time to run over,
grab them, and make it back before the start. I just reminded myself that part
of the plan was to stick with the plan even if some pieces of it don’t work
out, and promised myself not to pass up on any drink stations.
My goal was to finish in 2:59:55, leaving
myself a small margin of error. That translates to a 6:52/mile pace; my plan
was to run 7:07 miles for the first five miles, and speed up to 6:47 for the
next 15, then have the option of slowing down to 6:52 for the final 6.2. I
usually spend the first few miles of a race weaving through the crowd, jumping
up on sidewalks to pass people and generally getting the adrenaline pumping.
This time, I made an effort to keep it slow and conservative and let lots of
people pass me.
I stayed on my pace (actually a tiny bit
ahead of it) until the 5 mile mark, and then started to speed up as the initial
hills ended and the race flattened out. I actually had a little bit of trouble
setting my “cruise control” to 6:47 after running a few miles at 7:07 – I can
run fast and I can run slowly, but staying at an in-between pace like that is
challenging sometimes. After about two miles I’d gotten into the rhythm of a
6:47 pace and managed to stay there from then on. I lost a little bit of time during
those first couple of miles, though – it didn’t help much that I had a headwind
for most of the first half of the race. In keeping with my plan, though, I
forbade myself any thinking (in particular re-adjusting the plan) until I got
to the 20-mile mark and had some sense of what I had left.
After 20 miles, I was about 30 seconds
behind my planned-out split time, but still felt really good. I decided that
instead of slowing down, I would run the last 6 miles at about a 6:47 pace, so
that I could make up those 30 seconds. The last 6 miles were fairly hilly, so
what I really ended up doing was running about 6:30 on the downhill parts and
then just trying to keep moving on the uphill parts. The last mile was all
uphill, and I took it as fast as I could. That last mile was without a doubt
the most difficult thing I’ve ever done while running; I just kept repeating to
myself “I’m going to make it, I’m going to make it.”
And make it I did – 2:58:41, more than a
minute faster than my original goal. I was a little worried that I might faint
(the people running the finish area were probably even more worried), but I
managed to hold it together.
When I got back to where I’d left my
backpack (and those four energy gels), I got my camera out and asked someone to
take my picture. It’s not a great picture of me, but it captures the moment
perfectly. My eyes are closed, but not because I blinked. As soon as I handed
off the camera, my right calf seized up and I’d closed my eyes because it hurt
so much. But I’m still smiling.
I left Quinn a voice mail to let her know I’d
survived, and drank a whey protein shake thing that I’d packed as a post-race
toast. The next item on my post-race plan was to head to Shinrin no yu (森林乃湯, literally “hot
water in the forest”), a hot spring bath located at the north end of the Tsumagoi. There was supposed to be
a shuttle bus, but when I got to the area where it was supposed to pick people
up there was no bus and no one waiting for the bus, so I walked, eating most of
a loaf of raisin-walnut bread while walking (also part of the plan).
I don’t have any pictures from Shinrin no yu because, well, it involved
a bunch of naked dudes and they frown on picture-taking. (I didn’t actually
ask; I’m just assuming.) Totally the best post-race activity ever. In addition
to the usual hot-water baths, they also had a few cold-water baths that were
probably getting a lot more traffic than usual, as people were using them to
ice their battered muscles in between (longer) stays in the hot baths. My legs
felt much better after several rounds of the hot-and-cold treatment.
Then it was a shuttle bus, another shuttle
bus, a panicked search for an ATM, and a Shinkansen
ride home. I'm definitely not in the mood for a do-over this time. In fact, after I finished I saw some kids (presumably waiting for a parent to finish the race) doing something that might become my new preferred form of exercise for the near future.
Bungee-assisted trampoline! How cool is that?
Saturday, April 13, 2013
Hanami with giraffes
OK… so it’s been a
long time since our last blog post. A really long time. What happened is that
we really didn’t want to turn this into one of those “baby blogs”, where new
parents share cute pictures and developmental milestones with the whole world.
What we hadn’t counted on is that the last 8 months or so have been sort of
thin on the non-baby-centric activities, so we ended up not posting anything.
Instead of a baby blog, this turned into a culminates-with-baby blog.
Now, though,
spring is here and we’re ready to emerge from hibernation and take our
offspring out to see the world. A couple of weeks ago, for example, we went out
for hanami (花見, cherry blossom viewing) with some people
from RIKEN. Last year’s hanami
involved a lot of sitting in one place eating and chatting; this year was a little
more action-packed.
The first
destination was the gokukjinja (護国神社, a shrine honoring the war dead) in Kobe’s
Nada Ward. Apparently Japan’s fallen heroes like cherry blossoms a lot. We had
a picnic lunch with o-bento to fortify ourselves for the arduous flower-viewing
that lay ahead.
From there, we
walked over to the “Sakura Tunnel”, which is a narrow road up a rather steep
hill that is planted with cherry trees on both sides, so that when they bloom
it forms a cherry blossom tunnel.
The final
destination was Oji Zoo, which has an impressive collection of cherry trees. It’s
also a zoo that lets elementary-school age kids in for free, so on the first
really nice Saturday of the spring it was packed.
This giraffe was
appreciating the cherry blossoms in a different sort of way.
For next year, I think
the gokokujinja is definitely worth
hitting again, but we’ll probably skip the zoo. In general, a pretty good hanami experience.
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